How to lighten tightly curled hair.
By Humankind Hair Director Anneliese Hesse.
3 minute read.
Tightly curled hair has unique characteristics that make lightening it a very different experience to lightening straighter hair types.
It can surprise you, delight you and sometimes leave you shocked at the way it responds to your regular, go-to techniques.
Here are some tips to help better understand the process and build your confidence working with textured hair.
Be prepared.
It's common for curly haired folk to use more styling product, such as gels, and/or creams. This can affect both combing and lightening, so it's useful to communicate to your client how you want them to arrive with their hair. Be considerate though, as some people may not feel comfortable wearing their hair in certain ways.
Remember the priority is them, not you.
If you need to factor preparation into your service, make sure you have adequate time and the right tools at the ready.
Choose your products wisely.
Tightly curled hair is structurally different to straight hair, which has a direct effect on the lightening process. If not understood and accounted for, problems may arise such as breakage, frizz or loosening of the curl pattern.
Choose products that respect this
- they may be different to your usual lighteners, developers and toners.
Adjust placement accordingly.
Tightly curled hair grows out, not down.
Sectioning and placement need to be carefully thought through in line with both the hair's characteristics, and the client's desired outcome.
Very tightly curled hair can end up looking spotty if you're not careful, so never underestimate the importance of placement.
Really think about techniques.
If backcombing is your go-to, you're probably going to have to think again.
We advise against backcombing tightly curled hair as it can lead to extreme discomfort for the client and cause a lot of breakage, very easily.
Freehand techniques work well, as do foiling, but placement, product and timings are super important to be mindful of.
Do they wear their hair curly, straight or both?
Is the curl pattern consistent?
And what are their long term hair goals?
There is a lot to consider.
If you’d like to learn more about lightening all hair types, check out:
Balayage Breakdown
Next Level Foiling