Back to Work: Dealing with long regrowths
So unless clients have been doing their own roots at home (which arguably may be MORE of a problem) then we’re going to be faced with some pretty mega roots when we go back.
But how to tackle these? Should we book out extra time? Charge more? And when is it OK to cut corners to try and get things done quicker… without ending up with a redo that actually takes longer?
When to do a Long Regrowth Application
You may need to do a long regrowth application if your client has a regrowth over 1.5cm long AND any of the following applies:
client wants white/grey hair coverage
client wants to go lighter than their natural base
client wants a vibrant result or a colour result that is quite obviously different to their natural
If you’re doing any of the above then it’s likely you will be using permanent colour.
Here’s what you need to do if that is the case…
Long regrowth application using permanent colour
Now tempting as it is to skip this step to save time, it’s really important to do it properly because, if you don’t, you may end up with root glow, dull looking mids, banding, and probably a big fat redo. It’s worth running late for in our humble opinion.
Note: You do not necessarily need to add in any base - but if you HAVE added it in (for grey coverage or for other reasons) then you probably won’t need to take it through the previous coloured ends. Otherwise, it may end up looking too heavy, especially if the ends are dry or porous.
What if I’m not using permanent colour?
If you’re not using permanent colour but are doing an all over colour then you’re probably using either a demi/quasi, semi, or bleach.
Let’s start with the good news. If you’re using a true, semi-permanent, direct dye then you don’t need to do a long regrowth application! Yippee!
If you’re using a demi/quasi, then it will depend on a few factors:
the strength of the oxidant
the hair type
what you’re actually trying to achieve
If you’re only using a demi with a very low oxidant to add a natural looking gloss and subtle tone, you probably don’t need to do a long regrowth application.
But if you’re trying to get a bit of grey coverage, lighten/brighten the hair, then it could be a good idea to do it. The texture and porosity of the hair is going to affect results, too, with harder to lift hair being more prone to banding than perhaps another hair type.
This may sound a little complicated but in a nut shell, the more you are trying to CHANGE the hair, the more chance there is you’ll need to do this application.
Not sure which type of colour you’re using? Or maybe you’re wondering, why do long roots even have this affect on my colour result anyway?! If you want to learn more about different types of colour, how they work, hair types and more then check out our Hair & Colour Science course.
What if I’m using bleach?
If you’re using bleach then the application WILL be different but will also depend on the technique you’re using.
GLOBAL (scalp bleach)
You will 100% need to do a long regrowth application, but you’ll need to give the midband a head start before you start the roots. It’s also possible to do this with foil (platinum card) or without foil, and there are several factors that go into choosing exactly what to do.
Extra care needs to be taken in order to avoid overlap, breakage and creating further banding, and on some occasions it may not be possible at all to achieve the result the client is after. EVEN if they’ve had that result before. Too much time passing between appointments combined with damage or a fragile hair type can lead to this and then a serious conversation needs to be had with the client about what’s best to do from here.
Scalp bleaching is SUCH a huge subject and really requires in depth understanding in order to be carried out safely. If you’re not confident then we recommend you do not take these clients on just yet as it will only result in a huge amount of pressure that isn’t fair on you or the client.
For more information on global/scalp bleaching join our Bleach Without Fear course - we do this both in person and online and go into all the details and technical side of bleach as well as applications.
PARTIAL (highlights, balayage)
If you’re using a balayage or highlighting technique then a long regrowth shouldn’t be too much of a problem :)
You WILL still need to take it into account; trying to cover a long regrowth with highlights bares its own challenges and may require more time and a higher price to reflect that.
If you’re trying to cover a big dark block (which is basically what a long regrowth is!) and blend it into a lighter block, then you’ve basically got 2 options:
Bring more light higher up
Take more dark further down
To bring more light higher up, try this sectioning pattern and make sure you are weaving in MORE than you are weaving out. You could even alternate your weaves with a fine, back to back slice, for even more coverage, but this does take longer.
Don’t want to make your client super blonde? Then the alternative is to bring more dark further down. We like to use a freehand technique called naturalising to add back in some of the hair’s natural depth, bring more clarity to highlights and blend out the solid grow out for a lower maintenance look.
To learn more about freehand and balayage techniques check out Balayage Breakdown, where we’ll take you through the full spectrum of balayage techniques, both foil and freehand, and when and how to use them all :)
Ready to go!
We hope this gave you a confidence boost in feeling prepared to tackle long regrowths! Always remember to have this conversation with clients in advance where possible, and to book out plenty of time and make sure you charge for the extra colour and time!
You ARE worth it and don’t let anyone tell you otherwise.
Big Love,
HKH xx